Are there any heritage builders who would be able to give me some advice please. Fed up of cowboy builders who don't fully understand what they are talking about. I've already had more damp come in my house as a result of incorrect materials being used, so wary of tradesmen.
1910, solid wall house with damp on external wall on first floor. Window being replaced but been told render needs doing externally too. I've stripped internal wall back to brick, I can see it needs pointing in places.
My question is, why are builders telling me to dot and dab and put plasterboard on? Surely the dabs just cause bridging for more damp? I'd prefer the traditional method of sand/cement ( which is what I believe I removed) with plaster on top.
Disclaimer: I can only afford to pay once, which is why I want it done properly.
Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions on products.  |
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By *9alMan 21 weeks ago
Bridgend |
I have an 1890 house with solid walls, mostly stone with a bit of brick . if you get the wall externally rendered make sure they add a good water proofer to the mix this stops a lot of the damp getting into the wall. Some damp will always be in solid walls, normally its at livable with levels but if you want perfect looking walls dry lining may be the answer |
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"Are there any heritage builders who would be able to give me some advice please. Fed up of cowboy builders who don't fully understand what they are talking about. I've already had more damp come in my house as a result of incorrect materials being used, so wary of tradesmen.you need to stop it from the source,which will be from the outside
1910, solid wall house with damp on external wall on first floor. Window being replaced but been told render needs doing externally too. I've stripped internal wall back to brick, I can see it needs pointing in places.
My question is, why are builders telling me to dot and dab and put plasterboard on? Surely the dabs just cause bridging for more damp? I'd prefer the traditional method of sand/cement ( which is what I believe I removed) with plaster on top.
Disclaimer: I can only afford to pay once, which is why I want it done properly.
Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions on products. "
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By *9alMan 21 weeks ago
Bridgend |
"Wouldn't that affect the breathability of the house though? It's too expensive a job to get it wrong."
yes I prefer the walls to be able to breath but if you have Carrie Johnsons taste in Wallpaper a dry flat wall is essential. A lot of my walls have pine cladding on the inside which works well & as its mid terrace there is not a big area of outside wall |
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By (user no longer on site) 21 weeks ago
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"The dabs will just act as a bridge and create a cold spot. I've seen it on other houses. "
Something like this get it done properly, dry wall is like covering a problem.
Do you know the cause of the damp? That's the best place to start |
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Before doing anything on the inside the external render needs to be done, please do not use any waterproofing materials, I'd suggest a mix with lime in it's walls need to breathe.
With an old property like this I wouldn't dab it as it could cause further problems. |
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By (user no longer on site) 21 weeks ago
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"Before doing anything on the inside the external render needs to be done, please do not use any waterproofing materials, I'd suggest a mix with lime in it's walls need to breathe.
With an old property like this I wouldn't dab it as it could cause further problems. "
Agreed |
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That's my plan, new window, internal brickwork repointing, render. Only then will I start inside, after a storm or two to check quality of work!
My concern is the amount of incorrect advise I'm getting. House is solid brick, not stone. No other houses on my street have lime render, which makes me question of it is overkill on mine. |
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Once external render blows it will never be any good until it’s either fully removed or coated completely.
Internally, do not render to the floor.
There needs to be a bridge to prevent moisture rising.
Static head of water is 1mt so take that into mind as to just how far up it can affect materials.
There’s a simple reason older houses had such high skirting boards. |
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Agree with some of the comments but a building of that age and solid wall Construction ( no cavity ) can very often be condensation and not damp to cold wall (spots) and dependant on radiator locations etc |
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External wall insulation is designed for single skin buildings . A waterproof silicone render onto that , and there will be zero water penetration . I would alsosand and cement render and skim inside . |
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"External wall insulation is designed for single skin buildings . A waterproof silicone render onto that , and there will be zero water penetration . I would alsosand and cement render and skim inside . "
That's what I thought would be the correct thing to do internally, just getting lots of builders suggest battening and boards, which I don't want. It's hard to trust when you get so much conflicting advice, had a lovely chat with a surveyor though, so sticking to my guns. |
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By (user no longer on site) 21 weeks ago
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If the internal wall is hacked off back to brick you will have to insulate that wall with a stud frame and insulation behind it for the R value if building inspectors are involved |
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"If the internal wall is hacked off back to brick you will have to insulate that wall with a stud frame and insulation behind it for the R value if building inspectors are involved "
They aren't. I'm led to believe you can't safely insulate these walls anyway without affecting the physics of how this house is built. |
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Hi. The reason they want to dot and dab is because they can't do render. Most now dot and dab in old and new alike because it's quicker and easier; with greater profit margins. You may be surprised how many houses near you have a form of lime render. Though true lime render is very rare and impractical these days due to incredible cost and poor whether in which to be able to apply it. The problem of what many call damp, (but which is often actually condensation must be looked at holistically taking into consideration a 100yrs plus of interventions- what is appropriate for one house may not be so for another. The science to this is sadly complex and without an understanding of heat and vapour dynamics most just go with what they've been taught, mostly on the job. Sealing any 'damp' in with waterproof materials is though, absolute folly |
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By *ue owCouple 21 weeks ago
swansea |
High. Last year i done a job in a room which was riddled woth damp and dry rot. Everything removed, treated and replaced.
Damp proof slurry was applied and we put insulated plasterboard on using soudal plasterboard foam adhesive. As your right dabbing will create a bridge but the foam adhesive doesnt. A year later we have returned to carry on with the rest of the house and no issues in the room we done, still like new.
Dm me if you want to. |
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"Hi. The reason they want to dot and dab is because they can't do render. Most now dot and dab in old and new alike because it's quicker and easier; with greater profit margins. You may be surprised how many houses near you have a form of lime render. Though true lime render is very rare and impractical these days due to incredible cost and poor whether in which to be able to apply it. The problem of what many call damp, (but which is often actually condensation must be looked at holistically taking into consideration a 100yrs plus of interventions- what is appropriate for one house may not be so for another. The science to this is sadly complex and without an understanding of heat and vapour dynamics most just go with what they've been taught, mostly on the job. Sealing any 'damp' in with waterproof materials is though, absolute folly "
My understanding exactly, I'm confident I don't have condensation issues. I German shock the house morning and night, leave windows ajar during the day and use dehumidifiers in the evening. I also heat my house adequately. Doors are left open, no furniture against external walls, except bed which is frame, allowing airflow.
Thanks for your time, |
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"Hi. The reason they want to dot and dab is because they can't do render. Most now dot and dab in old and new alike because it's quicker and easier; with greater profit margins. You may be surprised how many houses near you have a form of lime render. Though true lime render is very rare and impractical these days due to incredible cost and poor whether in which to be able to apply it. The problem of what many call damp, (but which is often actually condensation must be looked at holistically taking into consideration a 100yrs plus of interventions- what is appropriate for one house may not be so for another. The science to this is sadly complex and without an understanding of heat and vapour dynamics most just go with what they've been taught, mostly on the job. Sealing any 'damp' in with waterproof materials is though, absolute folly
My understanding exactly, I'm confident I don't have condensation issues. I German shock the house morning and night, leave windows ajar during the day and use dehumidifiers in the evening. I also heat my house adequately. Doors are left open, no furniture against external walls, except bed which is frame, allowing airflow.
Thanks for your time, "
In that case it seems that the problem lies with the external render. Can you describe it in more detail please? Painted? Cracking/what pattern? Straight lines? Random map look? Is it hollow sounding when tapped? |
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has the roof been replaced recently?. the reason i ask is the older bitchumen sarking felt can appear in good condition but often it fails along the top of the wall where it's under most stress. this can lead to damp in upstairs walls where water pools at the eaves. it pretty simple and inexpensive to remedy with the introduction of felt support tray and some breathable roof membrane (roughly 80 quid materials). if you do hack off the render i wouldn't be surprised if the bricks are spalled in the area of the damp. these should be replaced prior to any re-rendering. |
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by the way, if you're replacing the leaking window and considering you have a dehumidifier it may be prudent to wait to see if the wall dries out before an expensive and disruptive re-render job that may not be necessary. good luck  |
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